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Old 07-09-2008, 10:59 PM   #31 (permalink)
8695Beaters
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Sil-Eighty = Silvia = SR20DET. The T means factory turbo brotha!!! The engine is built for boost from Nissan. 9.5:1 compression ratio, decently strong internals, and easy to make into a 300 hp Japanese monster. And not at all a Honda. But it's one of those cars I've always wanted and when the right car came along, I snapped it up. Needing a new car also helped the decision. Check the profile for my 1990 S2000 and you'll see a bit more. And no, I have not modified the internals of this engine. It can handle about 20 psi of boost before hurting anything.
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Old 07-10-2008, 07:08 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8695Beaters View Post
It can handle about 20 psi of boost before hurting anything.
I wouldn't bank on that bro my friend had a SR 240 that the previous owner was runnin 20 lbs on and some how screwed up Cyl 3 and was only getting 80 compression. But the previous owner was also known to be an idiot so he prolly did something else to it to screw it up. It ended up eventually throwing a rod bearing on cyl 3 and now the motor is in pieces in my friends garage
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
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But the previous owner was also known to be an idiot so he prolly did something else to it to screw it up.
'Nuff said. Idiot + fast car = bad things.
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Old 07-11-2008, 12:15 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Beater was your car built or bought?
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Old 07-23-2008, 03:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8695Beaters View Post
'Nuff said. Idiot + fast car = bad things.
I agree.
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Old 07-23-2008, 10:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I bought my car with most of the work done. But most of that work was built (with the exception of the ECU and probably the roll bar). I am building as much as I can, but for the stuff that I don't have the expertise on (ECU tuning, diagnosing electrical bugs), or have the tools for (alignment) I am buying. I have already fixed the coolant overflow tank, odometer (twice), tachometer, interior, fender, headlights, and power steering. I have a few more parts to get, but I am working on fixing a coolant leak, and relocating the battery (which is being swapped for a CRX battery for weight and size).

A lot of people look for stock cars to buy and build up themselves. I got a nice deal when you consider my engine is worth more than what i paid for the entire car. I would absolutely reccomend buying an old project from someone else. To the point where I am going to wrtie an article on how to buy an old project the right way (I have already bought two and looked at many more, so I know what to look for). No project is ever complete until you sell or total the car. The previous owner was ready to move on, and I have my own ideas for what it should be. I am having plenty of fun working on the car, despite having the bulk of the engine and power mods already done.
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Old 08-18-2008, 05:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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If I turbo my stock f22b2, how much boost do you think I would
be able to safely throw at it without getting any issues.
I don't wana build a car n spend the rest of my life trying to keep it running and tuned.
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:49 PM   #38 (permalink)
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7 to 8 psi will work pretty nicely. Anything more would be pushing the limits of the pistons. You can run like that for thousands of miles without issue. If you are gpoing DIY instead of a kit, make sure you have an experienced tuner doing your turbo tune. Some shops will even have a ready made tune. They can also help you out with exactly you should be installing to get the most power and the most reliability.
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Old 08-19-2008, 04:09 PM   #39 (permalink)
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A d16z6 motor with ARP studs cometic gasket and forged rods and pistons can handle 22 psi from a dsm 20g all day every day for years honda way over engineered these motors.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:21 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Good article my question is if I do want to go turbo what kind of pistons and all the other internals do i need to go with I have a 2000 honda civic ex d16y8 sohc v-tech. I want to know brand and type if u can.
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