[8695Beaters]

Allow me to parlay some of my knowledge then.

Cost: Brand new, yes a turbo kit and a supercharger kit will cost the same(ish. Turbos will probably be a few hundred cheaper becase there is more demand for them. Also don't forget about labor). If you have the knowlegde to build a junkyard turbo setup, then it will be much cheaper to go that route. If not, it all depends on what deals you find.

Lag: Lag is only a problem when you have a huge turbo and a tiny engine. A turbo that is sized for a small displacement engine should not suffer from any lag. A good, street-designed turbo kit should not have any turbo lag. Avoid kits that advertise "drag racing, huge power, high-boost, etc." Those will have big turbos and big lag.

Efficiency: If every turbo was built the same as Garrett's Disco Potato, this wouldn't be a problem. Sadly, most turbos were last redesigned in the 1970s. If you want to know more about the Disco Potato turbo, I can tell you, but that is mostly a Nissan Silvia turbo. And rather expensive.

Heat: Compressing air heats it up, so both types of compressors will heat the air coming into the engine. However, because a supercharger is less efficient it will actually heat the air more than a turbo. Many SC kits actually have a tiny air to water intercooler sandwiched between the compressor and the intake manifold. This only holds true for a Roots SC (commonly seen on Top Fuel dragsters). A centrifugal SC can use a standard air-to-air intercooler like a turbo, because it compresses air more like a turbo (and can be mounted anywhere in the engine bay). However most Honda SC kits I have seen use Roots-type superchargers, which are also prone to heat soak. So they will lose power as they heat up. Also rememer that SCs tend to run lower boost than turbos. Typical SC kits run about 7 psi. Typical turbos run about 8 or 9 psi. Suffice it to say that turbos will run cooler pound for pound. Also, you may need to upgrade your cooling system, no matter which route you take.

Surge: True if you have a late-spooling turbo. However, if you keep out of the boost, you can actually drive around town like your car has no compressor at all, saving gas mileage. That's not possible with an SC.

Back pressure: Both types of blowers will benefit from a bigger exhaust. However, the turbo will make better use of that flow because it can suck air out faster. Think about it like this: what's easier, pushing a column through a hole, or pulling it out? Turbos pull, SCs push.

Noise: BOVs can be very loud. But it's a cool sound. And again, if you keep out of the boost, you won't hear it. My Silvia has a 3.5" exhaust, and a fat turbo, but the loudest part of the car is the blow-off valve. Around town, the car is actually quite civilized.

Reliability: Both compressors will reduce the life of your engine. Simply put, it wasn't meant to take it. The oil bit is true, but only if you drive like an idiot and immediately shut off the car. If you've been racing, then allow a brief cool-down period (five minutes or so idling, or about ten minutes of sane driving). On the street, oil-clumping should be a non-issue. Also, if you run your turbo within it's design limits, then it will be fine (ie no overspinning. Turbos can over-rev too) Any off-the-shelf kit will already have this worked out. But like any part turbos (and SCs) will wear out. As for the manifolds, most turbo kits use cast-iron exhaust manifolds, which are very strong. Tubular manifolds, seen on race cars, are weaker and less reliable, but only in cars where there is a lot of heat. You won't need the extra flow offered by the tubular manifold unless you are doing some hardcore racing.

Installation: This is pretty much correct.

Power output: Also corect. This is because at a certain point, the SC takes away more power than it actually produces. There is a plateau where turning up the boost on an SC causes a power loss, because the engine can't overcome the drag losses caused by the SC. Also, changing the boost on an SC means changing the drive pulley. On a turbo, it's a simple push of the button or a turn of the screw (if you have an external wastegate).

Tuning: This is only true if you have a muscle car. Most import tuners are much more familiar with turbos and can tune them fine. And with the invention of electronic boost controllers, boost spikes are a thing of the past. Computers have made turbos the compressor of the future. Changing the the boost is a matter of telling the computer to change the ignition timing, add more fuel, and turn up the boost. Any competent tuner can do that in about 5 minutes. To do the same with an SC means replacing the boost pulley and then retuning. That's at least 30 minutes.

A low boost turbo in the long run will probably be your best bet since more people are familiar with the mechanics behind them. Plus parts will be a bit easier to get (if you blow a turbo, you can probably replace it with something from a Mitsubishi Eclipse). Also, the BOV will make that cool sneeze everyone loves and a grinning intercooler just looks freaking cool.

My one question is, why do you want to add more power? Just because? With today's gas prices, your money may be better spent on some bolt-on parts, which when combined well can give you about 30 hp and a very nice sounding Honda. Plus the reliability will be much higher and the initial cost will be lower. Plus it will be easier to inspect the car (assuming you have to pass an emissions test where you live).